10th.Oct.18, Syanbochen – Tsarang
It was only a short walk after breakfast to the nearby Syangboche La at 3850m. Once again there were great views of the surrounding snow-capped but rather distant mountains. Annapurna and Nilgiri were receding into the distance and the new ones such Yak Peak became more clearly visible. The terrain was drier and more desert-like than the previous day and there were no more juniper trees. We did see some herds of goats and wondered what they found to eat. At one point my Sherpa saw a ‘mouse’ under a small bush. On closer inspection it turned out to be a stoat which had caught a mouse! I was not quick enough though for a photo.
A route change was again necessary to avoid road works. This time making the route a little shorter rather than longer by missing out the lower village of Gheling. The highest point of the day was the Nyi La 4020m which was followed after a long and not very interesting stretch by the Ghemi La 3765m. This area is known for the coloured rock formations around Dhakmar. Lunch was in the village of Ghemi and afterwards there would be a climb to another pass at 3870m. I opted again to go with the jeep to the top and then make the long gradual descent to Tsarang on foot. At 3435m we were then nearly back at the level of the nearby but not easily visible Kali Gandaki gorge. Arriving first I had time on my own to visit the famous 700 year old Ghompa (monastery) which is impressively situated on the edge of a gorge next to an ancient castle. It reminded me of the monastery schools which I had seen in Burma with the boys in their red robes playing football.