Bay of Kotor walks
Sat.9th.June, Sveti Andrija Fortress
After a pleasant breakfast directly by the sea at the Hotel Admiral I was met at 8.30 by Vlatko of Zalaz tours http://zalaz.me/ who transported me in his offroader to the village of Ledenice 600m above the Bay of Kotor. There were fine views down to Risan and across the bay as I walked alone to the settlement of Ubalac, where I was warned by the local farmer about wolves and bears! Only a joke I think in this part of Montenegro. An easy climb brought me to the ruined Austrian fortress of St.Andreas at 736m, which provides a fantastic viewpoint across the bay to the open sea beyond and of the surrounding mountains, Orjen and Lovcen (see Rother Wanderführer Montenegro walk no.6). The beauty was enhanced by a sea of spring flowers surrounding the fortress. I did not take the direct descent to Perast but continued down an old military road in places much overgrown past the deserted village of Stepan to Orahovac. Here I found a bar with a small beach for a swimm before taking a bus back to Perast.
Sun.10th.June, Gornji Stoliv, Vrmac, Prcanj
Early the next morning I had arranged for a small boat to ferry me accross the bay to Stoliv where my walk started through a forest of sweet-chesnut trees reminding me of Ticino. The deserted village of Gornji Stoliv is soon reached, followed by a steep climb to a small pass and the level to Vrdola at 474m where a wide track is met. This continues along the Vrmac mountain but I chose to descend Prcanj (see Rother no.9). Finding the path involved pushing through a bramble thicket and a wood of small trees but after that it was clear to follow. In Prcanj I enjoyed a late sea food lunch followed by a swim. I continued by bus to Kotor where thanks to Vlatko my luggage was waiting for me in the Hotel Marija.
Mon.11th.June, Kotor, Pestingrad cliff
Vlatko had offered to accompany me on a walk to the Pestingrad cliff, but had other commitments during the day so that we could not start until 5.00pm. This gave me a full day for more sightseeing of the interesting historical town of Kotor, chiefly to climb the city defence walls which stretch 250m up the steep hillside behind the town. They give excellent views of the town from above and a hole in one wall provides access to the path to the Krstac pass from which Pestingrad can be reached. However I did not walk up but drove later with Vlatko to the 927m high pass. We started walking at 17.45 taking a shortcut although the route is marked with red and white paint across limestone rocks partly overgrown with bushes (see Rother no.12). Later more open ground is reached and views of the bay open up, though the view directly down to Kotor is blocked by the Pestingrad jutting out from the mountain. A short slightly exposed descent and then traverse across rocks requiring the use of hands leads to Pestingrad and the breathtaking view of the bay and city 1000m below. Sunset was rapidly approaching requiring us to soon make the return to Krstac which we reached at 20.30 and then drove down to Kotor in the dark.