Wed, 05.11.2025: Lava fields and Pico de Fogo
We have a choice: We can hike over young lava fields to the Monte Velha Forest or those who wish can set out early in the morning with a local guide to the 2,829 m high summit of Pico de Fogo. We shall meet again for lunch – a typical Cape Verdean dish will be served. In the afternoon, we drive to São Filipe and check in at Hotel Xaguate; Monte Velha hike: walking time 2-3 hours, +/- 50 m, easy. Volcano hike: walking time 5-6 hours, +/- 1,080 m, challenging, requires a head for heights and sure-footedness. Drive: 1.5 hours. Overnight stay: 1 night, Hotel Xaguate, room facing the sea.
Pico de Fogo, the largest active volcano in the region, has an eight-kilometre-diameter caldera the base of which is at an elevation of 1,800 metres and an interior cone that rises to 2,829 metres above sea level. This form is similar to but somewhat smaller than that of Mount Teide on Tenerife in the Canary Islands.. The caldera resulted from subsidence, following the partial evacuation (eruption) of the magma chamber, along a cylindrical column from within the magma chamber at a depth of 8 kilometres. Only 4 group members started very early in the morning in order to climb to the summit of the Pico de Fogo accompanied by a local guide. One of them was an experienced mountain runner and completed the round trip in 2 Hours!
The rest of us did not go to the Monte Velha Forest, but first passed through the remains of the village which had been half buried by lava in the eruption of 2014. The villagers did not receive much help from the authorities but they had been very industrious excavating their own dwellings, to a large extent by hand. Many are now occupied again although they are at least partly below the new ground level. Some have even made new gardens in the ashes. As we left the village, we were joined by the returning mountaineers.
The walk continued across the lava to a tunnel. This time only a few people went down the swinging ladder. I couldn’t see how long it was from above. Our guide was glad that I didn’t go down the ladder, but one man of almost my age did, despite her warnings. Lunch at a restaurant in the village consisted of the local Creole cuisine including a banana dessert. Afterwards we drove back down to the coast to São Filipe and a pleasant hotel with swimming pool and sea view.