Fri, 07.11.2025: Hike and drive across the island of Santo Antão

Ferry to Santo Antão and drive to the mountain village of Alto Mira. Rugged mountain ranges, agriculturally used slopes, and cultivated terraces characterize this southwestern region. Hike at Cha de Morte and taste local products at the Lagedos farmers’ cooperative. Then drive along the new coastal road to our eco-lodge on the North coast. Ferry ride: 1 hour. Drive on Santo Antão: 1.5-2 hours. Hike: Walking time 3 hours; elevation gain +360 / -580 m, sure-footedness and no fear of heights required. Overnight stay: 3 nights, Mamiwata ECO Village, Ocean-View Room

Santo Antao is the major island for walking and we were staying there for 3 nights. It is much greener than the other islands because of mists from the North bringing moisture and the scenery on the way to Alto Mira was fantastic. Two of us opted out of the steep and strenuous descent to Cha de Morte but walked along accompanied by our minibus to the nearby settlement of Cha Queimado which is perched on a ridge in the Mira Valley. One can just see down to the sea on the North coast. Even here crops are planted. What is marked as a church on the map turned out to be only a bell tower. We returned by the same route enjoying the landscape all the way, collected the hikers and reached Lagedos. Here we were treated to an excellent lunch. Our route continued back to Porto Novo and then turned North on the old road to Ribeira Grande.

The scenery becomes quite breathtaking as the cobbled road winds its way through the mountains along narrow ridges with steep drops sometimes on both sides. Having reached, to the relief of some of the passengers, Ribeira Grande the major town on the North coast, we still had to continue to Cha de Igreja, also near the North coast. However there is no coastal road so that a further mountain excursion was necessary. Finally we reached our exclusive lodgings near the village of Cruzinna de Garcia and were not disappointed. The Mamiwata Eco Lodge stands imposingly on its own overlooking the wild coastline of Santo Antao. Each of us had a little square cabin with unobstructed sea view. Mine was right next to the surf but raised higher. Swimming in the sea was impossible but there was a pool somewhere.