We had spent a day in Zermatt and with an excursion to the nearby Z’mutt alp before taking the Trockener Steg cable car early the next morning. From the station one soon reaches the ice and snow or the Theodule glacier and remains on it all the way to the Theodule Pass and Hut, at 3295m the highest point of our route. Here one is surrounded by several famous 4000er peaks of the Swiss Alps, most notably of course the Matterhorn.

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A short ascent brought us to the Fenêtre d'Ersa where there were again fine views of the Matterhorn now in perfect weather. Here one leaves Val Tourneche and enters the top end of Val St.Barthelemy which is crossed via two higher passes, the Fenêtre de Tzan being the first. From the highest point of the pass many peaks of the Pennine Alps come into view from the less familiar Southern side.

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Col Torray is soon reached and we arrived safely at the Rifugio Cuney. Here we greeted the warden and visited the adjacent oratory church. Then follows a narrow path across an exposed rock face, which fortunately is secured by chains. The route to the Col de Vessonaz passes through beautiful scenery with several small lakes surrounded by cotton grass. Mont Blanc could be clearly seen in the distance.

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Leaving the Hotel Olomont early we joined the path which climbs steeply mostly through forest until it reaches the Alp Champillon. From here the view on the North side is dominated by the Grand Combin and Mont Gelé, which had already lost much of its glaciation. There was a fine new refuge under construction and a year later it would have been possible to stay there. The rest of the climb to the Col Champillon is less steep with Mont Blanc and later the Grand Jorasses coming into view.

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We had mostly good weather for six days but this changed dramatically soon after we left St.Oyen and St.Remy so that we sought refuge in the Cantine d'Aoste. This unattractive but historic building on the South side of the Grand St.Bernard pass was supposedly visited by Napoleon before his battle with the Italian army. It now offers some accommodation and refreshments and we were kindly given a sumptuous meal by the lady owner.

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